Thursday 17th November 2011

                                                                              

Believe...

2010 Rhone - an awesome vintage - small quantities but great quality

   

                         

 

 ‘This is a great vintage that comes close in quality to 2007 in the southern Rhône. Some producers think 2010 eclipses 2007 because of the wines’ vivid freshness and focus. Throughout the southern Rhône, the hallmarks of the vintage are very dense purple, sometimes even blue/black colors as well as higher acid levels that have not been seen since 2004 and 2001. In fact, 2010's paradox is that I can’t remember a vintage so concentrated, powerful and rich that also has such zesty acidity...The downside is that following the relatively moderate to small crop in 2009, the 2010 crop was very small, largely because 30-40% of the Grenache crop (the dominant grape varietal of the southern Rhône) was lost due to a coulure and millerandage. This has undoubtedly contributed to the level of concentration in the final wines.’  -  Robert Parker, Wine Advocate Issue 197, 31^st October, 2011

 ‘Boyoboyoboy.....’    Kenny Stewart, SGFW, (tasting at Domaine Santa Duc, Gigondas), 20th October, 2011

 

Dear all,

There will be hype.  Much hype I suspect.  But I think having visited a whole host of producers and tasted extensively for 7 days in both the Northern and Southern Rhone that the hype will be justified.  Of course the Rhone region especially the South has been spoiled with 98/01/07/09 and many others in between but the year 2010 has, for me, the chance to be the best vintage of the lot because of 2 key factors – in the simplest of terms smaller yields and fresher acidity.  2007, a particular cracker in the South, was also a very bountiful vintage; 2010 less so, as early season ‘coulure’ in the flowering period compromised the yield but certainly not the quality.  On the contrary the concentration from small grapes and low yields in conjunction with great natural acidity have produced an array of wines that are packed with blue, red and black fruits with ripe, barely perceptible tannins. They are also the purest and freshest expressions of fine wine from the Sothern Rhone that I have tasted to date.  And that for me is the clincher.  Gorgeous wines with delineation and definition – Grenache that tastes as pure as Pinot. As I said.... Believe....  As for the North the wines are less obvious, slightly  less forward than the great 2009 vintage but whilst it is different in character with a more palpable inflection of terroir, it is still  a phenomenal follow up to 2009.  And again the wines from our portfolio of growers can be said to have an extra dimension like those in the South – ‘fraicheur’.  It will be fascinating to chart how the two successive Northern vintages 2009 and 2010 – the 2 greatest successive vintages in recent times – develop over the forthcoming years. 

Of course the attention is all too frequently foisted upon the red wines of the region at the expense of the white wines but, as Jancis Robinson and others have pointed out in recent years, there has been a revolution in quality of the whites over the last 10 to 15 years and this improvement trend shows no sign of abating. The white wines from both North and South in 2010 very much follow this trend.  Some brilliant Condrieus for example from Francois Villard with a great interplay between opulence, minerality and cut.  But plenty to shout about from others too – my recent conversion to the renaissance of St Peray continues.  In particular the growers that show a natural refinement to their winemaking approach have succeeded in producing the wines that I / we all want to drink most.   As for the reds – just too many highlights to note. The report would resemble a dictionary full of entries if I tried to list them all.  You will no doubt hear all about them over the forthcoming weeks and months.  Perhaps best just another exhortation to ...Believe...       

 

Great Growers, Old and New

We are delighted to add a substantial batch of new growers to last year’s line up – we have visited most of them for the last 2 years since setting up Stevens Garnier Fine Wine department and this year we will bring them on for the first time.  Good timing we hope.  There are frankly some spectacular producers to sing about: Clos St Jean, Ogier, Pegau, Usseglio,  and particularly Domaine Giraud  whose wines we noted last year as being of particular interest.  These have all hit home runs this year – Giraud’s top wine vying for wine of the vintage, for me, along with Yves Gras’s Grand Grenache.  And there is more – a number of lesser known great value wines to look out from by the likes of L’Arnesque, Bastide St Dominique.  These new growers will gradually release their prices and allocations to us  – we will  publish as we know more.    

But we will start this week, as we should, with some of our favourites – Clos du Caillou, Santa Duc, Grand Veneur, Marcoux, Mordoree, Ferme du Mont, Fondreche, Alary.  Once again these properties have produced some amazing wines – in many cases their best yet.   The only difficulty will be quantities - so we respectfully ask for a little patience from you and a little help too.  The yields are down overall by 30% or more  in the South and the top wines and special cuvees containing a greater proportion of old vine Grenache were afflicted to an even  greater degree.  Wherever we went on our travels we were shown photos of grape bunches at picking time which looked like a cartoon shark had made a clean bite into the bunch leaving only 10% of the grapes around the edges!  The result of this means the allocation pyramid is not likely to be so easy in 2010 for the top wines.  So please help by buying the wines from across the range.  You really can’t go wrong ...

 

Believe....

The Line-up 

 

NORTH

Domaine Ferraton

A stellar line up of Northern Rhones from this now over-performing domaine - just like last year in fact.  Influenced by the forward thinking Michel Chapoutier, Ferraton have embarked on a ‘selections parcellaires’ policy of their own and now has a line up of stunning wines from the key Northern Rhone appellations.  Wonderful Cornas, Ermitage and St Joseph 2010’s in particular from this exciting house.  Under the radar but with much to shout about.

Domaine Pierre Gaillard                        

It can still come as a surprise how the wines of a grower – like owners and pets - can resemble his or her  personal characteristics.  Pierre’s wines continue to match his open, friendly personality and his size!  A big man, his 2010’s show great heft with his best wines coming from Cote Rotie and St Joseph – Les Pierres superb this year.  His daughter Jeanne also contributes a beautiful St Joseph this year  – more lifted and feminine, fittingly.

Domaine Marc Sorrel

Our second visit to Marc Sorrel in the centre of Tain L’Hermitage was the very last of the week but a great and refreshing way for the trip to end.  The allocation, with yields well down on 2009 will be negligible. The superb classique ‘Hermitage’ a joy to taste – tremendously perfumed with the keynote freshness of the vintage.  Brilliant – a must buy Northern Rhone.  The collectible ‘crus’ white and red will be fought over and are a step up in power.

Domaine Francois Villard                      

Francois had gone off to a wine fair in Belgium when we visited.  Fortunately the dynamic man’s absence allowed us to taste at a gentler than usual pace!  Very good range in 2010 – brilliant whites St Peray, St Joseph and then those magnificent Condrieus – all 3 cuvees showing well with distinct personalities.  The St Joseph Reflets  was the most impressive of the reds we tried although it will take 6 to 8 years for its many complex charms to unfold.   

Domaine des Lises (Graillot)                 New *

The name Graillot is the benchmark in Crozes Hermitage and young Maxime is carrying the torch of father Alain forward into a rosy future at this domaine – between games of rugby of course.  Unafraid to experiment he has been using un-grafted vines for a yet to be released cuvee like another old mentor of his  Didier Dagueneau.  We like the straight Crozes best, however.  Brilliant vivacity, perfumed like violets and dusted with black pepper.  Textbook.      

Domaine Ogier                                           New *

I have waited a long time to visit Stephane Ogier but it was worth the wait to visit Ampuis the epicentre of Cote Rotie, and this address in particular.  Everything was harmonious at this domaine: friendly genius of a producer, bouncy family pet dog, smiley 4 year old  daughter.  And glorious wines.  Condrieus from the fresh, not super-opulent school and Cote Roties of rare quality (and for the special cuvees concomitant expense.)  The classic Cote Rotie is the wine to go for in the range no doubt.  Blindingly good wine and easily the best buy in the range.  Note – the wines are not offered en-primeur.  So the wines that will  be offered will be the 2009 Cote Roties – great result!          

 

SOUTH

Domaine Alary                                         

Like many growers who have reined in power for a more mature, sophisticated style the positive results are there to be seen at Alary.  The wines are much more approachable for the consumer as the foot has come off the gas.  Cairanne’s finest just got better as ambition is re-routed in the right direction.  The Font d’Estevenas and Jean de Verde like Fondreche’s Persia and Nadal, similarly based on Syrah and Grenache, vie for your particular attention.  Buy both.   

Domaine Clos du Caillou 

Wow.  What a line up in 2010 – particularly the reds.  Bruno Gaspard has pulled off a magnificent vintage at this estate.  In all honesty I did not get too excited by the 2009’s here as they lacked a little verve but the higher natural acidity in 2010 has allowed Bruno’s exuberant style to show with real focus.  The 2 cuvees named Quartz – CdR and CdP –  are nothing short of magnificent.  The Reserve Chateauneuf of course a showstopper but even the opener the Cotes du Rhone Bouquet des Garrigues sets an unbelievable pace in 2010.  Wonderful.  Please do not insult me by using the words Coudoulet de Beaucastel when this wine is on this sort of form!    

Domaine Ferme Du Mont

Stephane Vedeau goes from strength to strength with his range of wines and has acquired a fine new hideout in the hills surrounding Valreas.  The place looks like it might be inhabited by a James Bond villain but contains nothing more threatening than a very welcoming Stephane and his assembled ageing vessels.  The Chateauneuf Capelan is again firing on all cylinders in 2010 and with real energy.  Tremendous Vacqueyras and outstanding Gigondas too. 

Domaine Fondreche

Sebastian Vincenti’s wines have always had that thing beloved by wise wine consumers.  Cheap prices!  His wines, from the shadows of Mont Ventoux  produce are superb and  must give the best value : quality ratio in the whole of France.  The last 2 vintages have seen Sebastian aim for more subtlety and sophistication within the range and he has pulled it off without forgetting the pleasure principle.  Persia and Nadal once again look great in 2010 although the luxury cuvee Il Etait une Fois is absolutely compelling!     

Domaine Grand Veneur

This estate just keeps getting better year on year.  The wine style is hard to typecast – modernish for sure but the wines rise above that potential insult showing real personality and differences.  Like Fondreche they have always been very fairly priced although from 2010 it may change with near hysterical Parker ratings for the top wines.  Hopefully not - Alain Jaume’s  wines like Les Origines and Vieilles Vignes work just fine for me at these prices!  Origines in particular is tremendous again in 2010 – the balance bang on.           

Domaine Marcoux

Les soeurs Armenier – that’s French for sisters – believe they have made their finest ever wines in 2010.  And they have the form with several 100 point scores in the past.  The Lirac is by far the best they have produced for certain.  And the normal Chateauneuf is up with the best – good blue-toned fruit, bright and lively, with deceptive structure too.  The Vieilles Vignes reminded me of Chateau Latour for some odd reason first time I tried it - hints of marron in but its true depths were hidden.  I had it again yesterday with Sophie Armenier in London and it was stunning -  palate coating  with the structure to last many years but it started to sing like an angel after airing for 4 or 5 hours.  One of the wines of the vintage, no doubt, and will be a bottled riposte to Mr Parker who curiously underrated it (as I did initially).          

Domaine de la Mordoree                                     

Very different in style from nearly all the other domaines that we visited in the Rhone.  Dark, quite well extracted wines but what discipline too.  If the Marcoux had a Latour like aspect then Mordoree had the slightly cerebral quality that one associates with Lafite.  Enough of that - they are Rhone wines and brilliantly made in their own styles.  Christophe Delorme is very happy with his 2010’s indeed - both Liracs are very serious and the sculpted Chateauneuf Reine de Bois is one of the wines of the vintage certainly.  The 2011 rose was a cracker too!

Domaine Santa Duc

A very laid back Yves Gras greeted us on a sunny day, the howling Mistral like water off a duck’s back to the Gigondas native.  The wines were brilliant: ebullient yet more grown up than I recall before from cask here.  The Vacqueyras and the Gigondas both offer the usual power and plump fruit.  The Hautes Garrigues has the potential to be expansive but is packed with spice, garrigue and masses of fruit at this nascent stage.  The Grand Grenache by contrast is the most pure, cool and silky wine I have ever tasted at Santa Duc.  A contender for wine of the vintage, whatever Parker says.  His tip –top first stab at Chateauneuf is also a great success.  More power to the man.            

Domaine L’Arnesque                              New *

A new star in the making.  We imported this relatively new domaine last year and only one writer - Jancis Robinson – really noticed giving the Chateauneuf du Pape one of the highest ratings of the entire vintage.  Fine by us whilst we corner the production!  Julien Biscarrat and Sebastien Pathier have been buying up ancient bush vines in Plan de Dieu and have  a small amount of old vines in Chateauneuf.  The wines are expressive and opulent with brilliant texture and in 2010 the tannins and acidity running through them show a masterful touch.            

Domaine Bastide Saint Dominique     New *

Another new Chateauneuf grower for us producing neat, disciplined wines which are beginning to get the critics talking.  Situated very close to Clos du Caillou but a notable contrast in style.  A fine lithograph in style compared to Bruno Gaspard’s colourful and exuberant portfolio – but not to be underestimated.  The wines are tight, neat, fresh and beautifully etched – whites and red.  An estate going places and a great counterpoint to other growers.     

Les Cailloux                                                 New *

It feels slightly wrong to have New* beside the wines of Andre Brunel – a hugely respected veteran figure yet displaying an impish, youthful quality belying his years.  Andre was revered by many before we chanced along last month but we are delighted to come to the party late.  The whole range is very impressive, even the neat Cotes du Rhone selections, but the interest moves up a gear with a marvellous white Chateauneuf, fleshy yet dripping with tangy minerals before the reds reveal a wily old master on top form.  The terrific Cuvee Centenaire is expressive, lively, concentrated and profound.    

Domaine Clos St Jean                              New *  

Probably the superstar producer in the last decade in Chateauneuf – unashamedly hedonistic wines and more points than the combined efforts of Johnny Wilkinson and Dan Carter.  Even the maligned 2008 was a great success here although the 2009  and 2010 vintages of course will be the ones everyone wants to collect.  The cherries are rigidly allocated (to us) and therefore a bun fight may well ensue.  I am not above bribery.     

Domaine Giraud                                        New *

Absolutely the new superstar.  We visited Marie Giraud last year and adored the wines but alas our timing was a bit wonky and we missed the wines.  We hope to grab a few cases of her wines this year and frankly they should not be missed.  Fabulous from top to bottom.  The white is textured and flamboyant without sacrificing minerality, the Gallimardes is a truly sexy thing – very exciting and Les Grenaches de Pierre as silky, lush complex as any wine in the entire vintage.  Different to and more flamboyant than Santa Duc’s Grand Grenache but joint wine of the week for this taster.  A sensational line-up.    

Les Bosquet des Papes                           New *

Brilliant quality wines here for the money – really interesting, complex wines and still winningly old-fashioned in style.  Nicolas Boiron has made subtle shifts to his father’s work – adding a touch more polish but otherwise keeping the traditional style intact.  Great nose on these lifted, classy wines and choc full of fruit delivered with a creamy ripeness.  We like the bottom and top cuvees best here – the Chante le Merle particularly expressive and showing spicy depths in this great vintage.  Impressive showing although will take a few years to be seen at its optimum.

Domaine Mayard                                      New *

Bang for the buck is what you get at this estate.  There are several cuvees – but we have gone straight for the jugular and listed the top one Le Crau de ma Mere.  This is a full on wine made from very old vines and packs a powerful punch but has the glorious garrigue infused fruit from the south to counterpoint its soft, plush, low-acid feel.  The yang to Mont Olivet’s yin.

Domaine Mont Olivet                             New *

Burgundy for the buck.  Well not Burgundy of course but the most lacy, fragrant range of wines we tasted all week.  A lovely range and change of style.  The Clos is quite amazing value and the Cuvee Papet – well the Musigny of the South may be a little OTT but it has the definition, perfume and exhilaration you expect from a top notch Chambolle Musigny.  A great little winery the juice of which exudes real class and finesse.    

Domaine Pierre Usseglio                       New *

A trio of magnificent wines – all very different and a huge success here in 2010.  Thierry is the most welcoming of men and his wines reflect his smart, precise modern outlook without ever descending to a specific style.  Instead the 3 main cuvees each do something brilliant and different.  And do it superbly well.  Nothing to dislike here – a cracking ‘standard’ CdP with Mon Aieul and Deux Frères displaying totally different expressions of old vine fruit according to site and elevage.   

Chateau de Vaudieu                                 New *

A departure for us just to show we are not too dogmatic.  There are new oak barrels at this (beautiful 17^th century) estate. Cripes.  Sacrilege.  Disgrace.  Actually, given that I normally run a mile from an oaky style these wines tasted pretty impressive to this cynic and I was easily able to put aside my prejudices.  Laser like definition here on the range of wines but with a crowd pleasing element too.  The wines have great depth and show high-toned blue, black fruit profile.  But all beautifully controlled.  I can see this estate creating a huge buzz in the next year or 2. 

 

And to follow later

Domaine du Pegau                                   New *

As well as providing the best vintage report of the visit the ever frank and lovely Laurence has produced outstanding range of wines in 2010.  Must haves.   These wines are honest and not necessarily showy in the ultra-plush style of many estates.  But by golly they are good – the Cuvee Reservee is one of the wines of the vintage and this includes all the special cuvees.  Fresh, clean, mineral, some clove and licorice and a hint of marron all wrapped up and presented in a natural, unforced style.  The wine already has huge Parker points but should be available still at a fair price.  Mark it ‘to be grabbed’ on release – hopefully released this December.      

Domaine de la Vieille Julienne             New *

I hear a train a comin’.  The great wines of Jean Paul Daumen – his estate powered by old vine, tiny yields and biodynamic principles rarely release at the time of year to fit into the en-primeur campaigns of fine wine merchants. But we’ll be keeping an eye on the timetable and watching the slow train chugging into view.  These are wines of great dynamism with a real sense tension to them.  Another star turn.                                                                                            

We think there should be something for everyone in this offer – please contact me for further details or to discuss any of the wines I’m always delighted to do that . 

Please call on 01865 263 304 or email Kenny.stewart@stevensgarnier.co.uk

We will update prices on all the wines as and when we have final allocations/prices  confirmed – please note some of the prices quoted are estimated price only.

All Rhone 2010’s will be shipped  during the course of 2012.

 

Our normal En-Primeur terms apply.  **All wines offered subject to remaining unsold.  E&OE.

(Please note there will be a 2% surcharge on credit card payments on en-primeur wines to cover charges.  Debit cards, cheques and transfers, of course, remain free of charge.) 

Kind regards,

 

Kenny